It isn’t a route, it’s a jungle.
Wilson Center
Wilson Center
In early August, President & CEO of the Wilson Center Ambassador Mark A. Green visited Panama and Costa Rica, witnessing first-hand the dangerous trek thousands of men, women, and children are making each day in search of a better life. Many start their journey in the Darien Gap—a stretch of dense jungle located between Colombia and Panama. While the majority of refugees and migrants heading through the Darien are Venezuelans escaping the regime of Nicolas Maduro—70% by recent estimates—the remainder hail from all over the world. Despite signs declaring “No es una ruta, es una jungla,” or the Darien isn’t a route, it’s a jungle, people continue to risk their lives to bring their families some safety and security.
Nobody believes that the current Central American migration framework is a sustainable answer to the challenges that mass displacement poses, writes Ambassador Mark A. Green.
Amb. Mark A. Green and Eddy Acevedo consider ways for the US and its partners, including Panama and Costa Rica, to work together to break apart smugglers' incentives and ensure the humane treatment of migrants and refugees.
Refugees journeys start here in the Darien Gap—a vast and dense jungle stretching between Colombia and Panama.
As families leave the dense rainforest, canoes stand ready to take them to shelter - for a price. A seat costs $10 USD for every man, woman, and child.
To keep things moving, villagers call ahead to the temporary reception center (ETRM) so humanitarian workers know how many travelers are coming.
Migrants and refugees arrive by the dozens at the Lajas Blancas ETRM in Panama. While signs warn the Darien is not a migration route, people continue to come—approximately 70% are Venezuelans forced to flee the Maduro regime.
Yet many others come from around the world: officials estimate more than 20 different nationalities are represented in the hundreds of refugees coming through the jungle each week.
After trekking through the jungle, clothes can finally be washed, shoes dried, and phones charged.
Makeshift schools return a bit of normalcy to the many children and families on this journey. One in five migrants along this route are children, and many travel without their parents.
The flow of migrants isn’t just one way: here at the northern border of Costa Rica, neighboring Nicaraguans escaping persecution often flee south.
Some cross as formal border stations…
… while those who cannot pay the border guards find alternate routes. A nearby orange grove has become a makeshift highway.
At Casa Esparanza, aid workers are ready to deliver supplies. One can find clothes for all ages.
No matter where they are on their journey, children need safe spaces where they can simply be kids…
… and where they and their families can remain hopeful despite an uncertain future.